Tropical Dreaming

We’ve had constant water outages lately. And that doesn’t make a lot of sense since we’re on a well. So the landlady sent this guy out to look into it for us.

He didn’t seem to speak much English, and although my Spanish has gotten quite a bit better, there’s still an awful lot of “sign language” and gesticulation involved in my day-to-day attempts to communicate with the locals.

I didn’t realize it until today but one of the sad parts about language barriers is that humor tends to suffer. Bummer for me since I’m the kind of person who likes to joke around with people.

Anyway, this poor guy was crammed up under there, trying to get at the screw terminals of the pressure shutoff switch and we managed to commiserate about how, once you hit 60, that’s not a lot of fun. Then he showed me that he was struggling because his screwdriver wouldn’t stand up enough to get the blade into the screw… He needed a “stubby“ which I don’t have. He looked in his truck and he didn’t either.

Then I got the idea of getting a hex bit out of my interchangeable bit screwdriver and locking onto it with a pair of vice grips. That way he could get it in there and it would serve the same purpose as a stubby or an offset screwdriver.

So I went to the car and got it and when I handed it to him, he smiled and said “Ah, MacGyver!” And we both had the best laugh! 

Who knew MacGyver was a universal language?!

The owner (Tay) has been extremely gracious throughout our multiple stays and she’s been super easy to work with whenever there’s any sort of problem. The house has nearly everything we want—the pool, the fenced-in yard, air-conditioning, safe neighborhood—and is, in general, quite comfortable for us (apart from the cold showers - more on that below) and has basically felt like home for some time. The long term rent that we worked out is very fair and reasonable.

Krista is a little conflicted about it (there’s still a lot of Panama that we haven’t seen yet) but the nomadic lifestyle has had some real drawbacks and creates a lot of stress. Plus, the Coronado/San Carlos area has absolutely everything we’re looking for so we don’t want to get too caught up in “grass is greener syndrome”.

This new living arrangement means a couple of important things…

1. We’re no longer restricted by the cargo capacity of our car (and we long ago passed the point of too much stuff to move in one trip ergo any move needs to be no more than a couple hours away)
2. We can buy things that we’ve been putting off (see #1) like a good food processor and a surround sound system to go with our projector and screen.
3. We’re guest ready! Or at least we will be soon…

The fix for the cold showers situation will be to buy or order an inexpensive tankless/instant hot water heater. They actually have ones that are built into the shower head - which would make for the easiest installation and subsequent removal. The last place we stayed had one and while it looked kinda scary having electrical wire and exposed wire nuts in such close proximity to the shower head, it actually worked well.

1. The cost of living is a lot higher than we expected…
   1. A meal in a little fonda (traditional Panamanian cafe) is cheap but the food doesn’t really appeal to us. But a meal in a restaurant that does will be $50-75.
   2. Fish at a roadside seafood stand and/or veggies at a fruit/vegetable stand  is/are priced attractively but almost anything in a grocery store costs as much or more than it would in the U.S. And while they do have “PriceSmart” (Panama’s equivalent to Costco), where you can buy in bulk and save, at grocery stores, you can’t do that. You can’t even buy a 12 or 24-pack of Coke or soda water — everything is sold individually!
   3. A tank of gas is (I think) a little cheaper here than in the U.S. but not much. Prices here are per liter but if you do the math, we’re paying approx. $3.60/gallon (and that’s for 95 octane).
2. Housing prices are a lot higher than we had hoped.
   1. There are bargains to be had but there are always issues/trade-offs/compromises.
   2. We find ourselves pushing our upper limit higher than we had planned in order to get something that we like.
   3. The dream of buying a house—with a pool—within walking distance to the beach—that doesn’t need a TON of work… was precisely that - a dream.
   4. A lot that’s near the beach would give us the opportunity to have everything we’re looking for but working with Panamanian contractors and getting the necessary building permits, etc. is purportedly a nightmare so Krista won’t even consider it.
   5. Having said all that, we remain hopeful that we’ll find a place that’s exactly what we’re looking for! 
3. The nomadic lifestyle is hard. And stressful. And expensive.
   1. That may not be true for everyone, but we’ve identified certain needs and  essentials… like a fully fenced-in yard, a private swimming pool (places with shared pools frown on our dogs going in the pool with us), air conditioning, hot water (you can’t take that for granted in Panama!), a kitchen, and laundry facilities (at least a washer). And with criteria like that, the pickin’s get pretty slim. And pricey. And as we look and look for affordable rentals that meet those criteria, we ultimately start to run out of time. And now it’s, “OK, we could live without laundry facilities. What’s out there?” Followed by, “OK, we could live without laundry facilities and hot water. Anything affordable, now?” Until it’s, “We have to leave here in three days! Are we comfortable paying $500 more? Should we forget about the private pool?” Etc. etc……..
   2. Packing up everything, driving to another place, then unloading it all and putting it all away is tedious and more than a little strenuous. Krista says She always knew it was going to be hard (especially with me being such a homebody) but it is what we signed for…
   3. Plus, when we find a place we like and we’re happy there, saying goodbye is sad.
4. Medical care, whether for us or the dogs is excellent, and a fraction of the cost in the US. The following items pertain to our healthcare…
   
   1. You do spend more time in the waiting room, waiting as much as an hour or two beyond your appointment time to be called in to see the doctor, but…
   2. When it is your time to see the doctor, your appointment is unrushed. He or she takes his/her time and listens.
   3. You don’t have to wait as long to get an appointment.
   4. Prescription costs are, for the most part, also much more affordable.
5. The weather, for the most part agrees with us, but…
   1. Krista’s Fibro does get triggered/aggravated by extreme heat. It’s manageable, though, as long as she can cool off with a dip in the pool.
   2. Since Krista is a mosquito magnet/gourmet meal, it’s super important that we have air conditioning so we can close up the house and keep the little bastards out.
      
      1. Except that’s going to get expensive if electricity isn’t included in our rent.
      2. Of the places we’ve rented, only the condo in Cocolì could be totally sealed up. Every place else has had dozens of places where mosquitoes could find a way in.
      3. Once we have a place of our own, we can implement various remedies to mitigate the mosquito issue but as long as we’re nomadic renters, she’s just going to get a lot of mosquito bites (which she’ll scratch and scratch and scratch until they form scabs which become scars).
         
      4. We definitely plan to invest in solar-powered air conditioners once we buy a house.
         
6. This one is a bit of a shocker—even to us… Given the choice between a place near (i.e. walking distance to) the beach with no pool, and a place with a pool that’s further from the beach (e.g. a 10 minute drive) — we now know that we’d prefer the latter. We never would have guessed it ourselves! Here’s why…
   1. As mentioned in item 5.1 above, a dip in the pool is extremely therapeutic for Krista and helps her deal with (the impact on her health/pain from) the heat.
   2. It’s also, for both of us, very relaxing, enjoyable, and stress relieving.
   3. There’s actually a really big difference (for us, anyway) from taking a few steps into the back yard and jumping into the pool vs. walking or driving to the beach and getting into the water. (The time it takes to do that—and the heat it exposes us to—can easily negate the therapeutic benefits.)
   4. While in the pool, we can throw the ball for TinkerBelle and enjoy watching her chase it and bring it back—secure in the knowledge that she won’t run off because the yard is fully fenced. By contrast, chasing her for two miles down the beach, all the while worrying that this might be the time she doesn’t come back, just isn’t nearly as fun!
   5. Getting out of the pool, toweling off, and walking a few steps back into the house, we can just go about our business. We don’t have to spend several minutes going from the beach to the house, washing the sand and ocean water off of us, the dogs, our shoes, etc.
   6. At the beach, there’s no protection from the sun (at least not while we’re in the water). And sunscreen only works so well/lasts so long. Sunburn is pretty common for me. By contrast, the house in Coronado that we’ve rented in the past (and will soon be renting again) has shade at various times of the day. We only need to worry about sunscreen from around 11AM - 3PM. (When we have a place of our own, we’ll take steps to make sure the pool has shade.)
   7. Don’t get me wrong, the beaches here are gorgeous, and we do love going to them!
   8. It probably goes without saying that, if we could, we’d like to be near the beach and have a pool. But while I’m convinced that’s possible if we buy a lot and build, [see item 2.4, above]
7. Help—as in housekeeping, pool maintenance, gardening, and handyman services (those things that are either too strenuous or distasteful to do them ourselves)—is extremely affordable. And that’s very conducive to the lifestyle we’re shooting for.
   1. For less than $300/month, we can have a housekeeper come twice a week to clean our house completely and do all our laundry!

When you put it all together, it spells an eagerness to find a house we like and get settled. But we’re torn, too, because there’s so much of Panama we have yet to see. The Coronado/Nueva Gorgona area seems to have everything we’re looking for, but who knows if we’d fall in love with Puerto Armuelles or Bocas del Toro, or…? And maybe the perfect house for us is just waiting to be discovered in some other area of Panama.

And frankly, Europe isn’t completely off the table, either. I just did some checking and, per the official retirement visa requirements, we do make enough money to get a retirement visa in Italy, France, Portugal, and other European countries.

Having said that, we have a lot invested in Panama…

 

We passed our destination at  7:55 and continued on toward PriceSmart (Panama’s Costco) because there’s no parking at immigration.

Unfortunately, we passed PriceSmart inadvertently and a series of u-turns cost us 15 minutes. When we finally got there, a bicycle Security Guard at PriceSmart wouldn’t let us park and walk out of the lot  — even though PriceSmart isn’t open yet and we actually plan to do some shopping there when we’re done here. We had to go park at a nearby bank that has paid parking. Another 15 minutes lost. 

We started walking toward the immigration office, maybe a half mile away, but Krista’s having a bad pain day so we flagged down a cab (first cab ride in Panama!) and  FINALLY made it to the immigration office with only 10 minutes to spare.

That tall, thin guy in the background with the burgundy shirt and a vest is our attorney, Will. (Actually, his wife is the attorney and he’s basically her paralegal who does all the work on immigration cases.)

Being here, foreigners in a strange country, asking them to accept us and let us live here is a very odd experience. Neither of us, ever in our lives, expected to have this experience. It’s humbling and makes us both glad that we’ve always shown compassion for immigrants to the U.S.

At around 11:00 last night, I heard TinkerBelle outside barking ferociously and incessantly. I went out to see what was going on and she was chasing a big toad. (Bigger than my hand.) She was inches from it’s back end.

Cane toads are common in Panama and highly toxic to dogs. Their skin secretes bufotoxins, which can cause vomiting, seizures, and even death if a dog bites or licks them.

One of the first things we did was catch the toad and toss it in the laundry sink that’s outside the kitchen door. I wanted to identify it and make sure that it was, in fact, a Cane Toad. Krista was instrumental in helping me catch it but we were both a little freaked out, assuming they’re also toxic to people. (We since confirmed that’s true, but since people only get the toxins on their skin and not in their mouths, it’s nowhere near as dangerous as it is for dogs. Mostly it just causes skin irritation and maybe some nausea. You just have to wash your hands quickly.)

It’s critical to treat dogs promptly if they get ahold of a Cane Toad but we didn’t know of any vets in this area that are available 24 hours for emergencies. I put out feelers via WhatsApp messages with the few people we know here — the people we’re renting this house from, our friend, Roger, in Punta Chame, our attorney, Will, another friend from Facebook who lives nearby, and the realtor we’ve been talking to about properties in Coronado. 

I knew most people were probably already in bed so I proceeded to search Google for emergency veterinarians in the area, while simultaneously getting as much info as I could from ChatGPT about Cane Toads and dogs, home remedies, and anything else I could think of.

Based on information we got from ChatGPT, Krista got a towel wet and started wiping out Tink’s mouth. She had her drink water and gave her some coconut milk.

Meanwhile, Roger saw my message and responded within a couple of minutes, giving me a number to call. The vet answered but didn’t speak much English so we switched to messaging and I used the translator app on my phone. This slowed things down, which (time being of the essence,) added to the stress of the situation. 

As I continued to chat back and forth with the vet, I found out that A) he makes housecalls, B) we could pay with a credit card (we don’t have any cash around at the moment), and C) the price would be $50 for the housecall and around $85 for the tests that we’d need. By this time, though, 30 minutes had gone by — and Tink wasn’t showing any symptoms. Symptoms of Cane Toad toxicity come on very quickly. Depending on the size of the dog and the amount of toxins ingested, a dog can actually be dead in 30 minutes! I felt like everything was probably OK. I sent the vet some videos and he concurred so we didn’t have him come but he told us that he’d be standing by if we needed him.

I kept an eye on her until 2AM and she seemed fine and was sleeping comfortably. This morning, she was totally fine. We’re very relieved.

TinkerBelle’s playfulness, happy-go-lucky fun-lovingness, and puppy antics add so much joy and laughter to our lives. It would have been devastating to lose her.

Ultimately, I believe her fearfulness was stronger than her (remarkably strong) prey drive and that’s why she’s still alive. We’re going to be working on that prey drive, though. And before we move on to the next beach town in early April, we’ll be finding out where the nearest emergency veterinarian is and know how to reach them.

(Aside: If you’re not yet all aboard the ChatGPT train, you should be. It performs the same internet search Google does - probably even using Google search results - but you don’t have to wade through page after page of links — it just gives you the answers you seek, quickly and mostly accurately. You can go to chatgpt.com on any web browser but I recommend the free app; I have it on my Home Screen and it’s my go-to resource for answers.)

Everyone at the San Fernando Clinic/Hospital was extremely nice. Plenty of English-speaking doctors, nurses, and front-desk staff meant that communication was unimpeded and I was very comfortable and understood everything that was happening.

The doctor examined my toe, gave me a local anesthetic, and spent 20-30 minutes gently, carefully cutting away the dead/bad flesh. Because I’m diabetic, he prescribed antibiotic injections rather than oral/pills. He wrapped the toe and had a nurse give me the first of four antibiotic injections. (I have to go back tomorrow and Saturday, but they’re closed on Sunday so on Saturday, Krista will go to my appointment with me so the nurse can show her how to give me the final injection.)

Going to the front desk to pay before leaving, I thought about how much time the doctor spent and how much this was going to cost. My guess was between $200 and $300 and I was OK with that considering that the cost in the States would almost certainly exceed $1000. But the bill was a mere $68 and the follow-up injections would be less than $7 each, for a total of less than $85. 

I went home and told Krista that based on the quality and cost of care that I received, I’d be perfectly fine with aborting the rest of our exploratory travels and committing to settling down right here in Coronado. We’re already sold on so much about the area, from restaurants and entertainment options to local stores and shopping, to the proximity of the beach. And for everything else, Panama City is only 90 minutes away.

Good healthcare is so important with the health issues we already have; as we get older, it will only become more so. The San Fernando Clinic has my trust and respect; I feel good knowing they’re nearby.

 

 
P.S. Sorry for the shamelessly misleading clickbait post title.

About Casco Viejo

Casco Viejo, also known as Casco Antiguo, is the historic district of Panama City and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Founded in 1673 after the destruction of the original Panama City (Panamá Viejo) by pirates, Casco Viejo features a blend of Spanish, French, and American architectural influences. The neighborhood is known for its beautifully restored colonial buildings, cobblestone streets, and vibrant cultural scene, including museums, churches, boutique hotels, and some of the city’s best restaurants and nightlife. It’s a popular destination for both tourists and locals looking to experience Panama’s history, art, and cuisine in a picturesque setting.

 

Lastly, the district is known for its lively social scene, with rooftop bars offering stunning views of the Panama City skyline. While Panama is largely religious and conservative, Casco Viejo is LGBTQ+ friendly. Despite its small size, Casco Viejo plays a central role in the city’s culture and history, making it a must-visit for anyone exploring Panama.

With its beautiful plazas, cathedrals, and museums, Casco Viejo is decidedly very touristy — but not, as far as we were concerned, in a negative way.

Gift/souvenir shops were plentiful and Donnie now has a genuine Panama hat! Krista has a new apron, hot mitt, keychain, sarong, necklace, refrigerator magnets, and gifts that we have no idea how to send back to the States! 🤣

Dog Friendly

The plazas, as well as the restaurants, cafes, coffee shops, outdoor dining areas, and even the laundromats were dog-friendly! There’s no ADA in Panama; even seeing eye dogs are treated as “mascotas” (pets) but our babies were not only welcomed - they were celebrated!

Casco Viejo is surrounded on three sides by water. On arrival, we were greeted by this beautiful bird…

Playa Casco Viejo

We didn’t find it until we met a very nice, helpful expat resident named JR, but at the end of the next street over from our inn was a small beach — where TinkerBelle and LoloLu had a wonderful time swimming and (mostly) bounding (the water is quite shallow) around. It’s not exactly picturesque; in fact, there’s a lot of garbage (that collects where the beach meets the buildings of Casco Viejo at high tide). As a result, poor TinkerBelle got a urinary tract infection afterward — but they had a great time and neither of them got eaten by alligators 😱 so it was a good day!

The Food

We had an absolutely exquisite meal at CascoMar - from the fresh-baked bread to the incredible sangria (best we've ever had by a wide margin!) to the amazing fish entrees (I had tuna, Krista had seabass) - all the way to the excellent dessert! We would have eaten there every night if our budget allowed. We also had very good sushi, pasta, pizza, and Lebanese food while we were there. And while we did find some great coffee, everywhere we tried to get pastries disappointed.

Our Lodging

The AmazINN Places Boutique Casa Arias (see our YouTube video for more) did not disappoint. It was comfortable, cozy, and quiet; it oozed charm and we enjoyed our time there.

Lots of wonderful rest and relaxation was had here…

The biggest problem with our lodging was that it had no parking — and parking in Casco Viejo can be difficult to find. Once we managed to get a good parking spot that was close to our inn, we were loathe to move the car so we walked everywhere - to get coffee in the morning, to go eat/pickup takeout, to go to the grocery store to get ice for our cooler (the mini fridge in the room was really small), to go do some laundry, and of course to walk the dogs. I did quite a bit more walking than Krista, and as a result I ended up with a big, nasty blister on my right big toe. Due to my neuropathy, I didn’t feel it until it was pretty bad. Fortunately there’s a really good medical clinic at our next place in Coronado…

General Conclusions - AmazINN Casa Arias

Things We Liked

• Beautiful decor throughout 
• Interior ‘secret garden’ patios/balconies that look down onto the pool
• Lovely rooftop terrace with very nice views
• Shared kitchen area was well-equipped 
• Mini-fridge in the room
• Nice shower with hot water!
• Easy check-in/check-out
• Very reasonably priced 

Things That Could Have Been Better

• Reserved parking spots
• For all our luggage, an elevator would have been really nice
• Where the TV is mounted, one person (watching from the bed) has a bed post blocking the middle of the screen.
• Swimming pool was very shallow (mid-thigh) and the water was cold 🥶 

General Conclusions - Casco Viejo

It’s a beautiful place and I’m really glad to have spent some time there. I think it’s probably the very best part of Panama City and I’d recommend it to anyone who’s visiting Panama. For anyone who, like us, is thinking of coming to Panama to live, I’d suggest you allow Panama City to put its best foot forward by making Casco Viejo your first stay. But it's not the spot for us. Condo/apartment living isn't a good fit for the dogs; we're looking for a single-family home with a swimming pool and a nice beach nearby. Casco Viejo just isn't the place for that kind of a property.